Dragon's Lair Fans - Arcade Lifestyle
General Chat => Arcade Lifestyle => Topic started by: Etienne MacGyver on October 07, 2010, 12:53:58 PM
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I am planning to restaurate my recently obtained zaccaria crazy kong.
Since time is limited, its going to take some time...
First i want to make sure it is technically 100%, that motivates the rest of the job so much more 8)
My machine is working, exept as you can see, there is something wrong with "Mr. Ape" :-\
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/17.jpg)
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/18.jpg)
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/19.jpg)
I know some basic electronics, but repairing a PCB is a different story, so i decided to look for a replacement board.
Later i can see if there is anybody capable of repairing this board as a spare.. (robin maybe ??)
anyway, i found that Level42 had a original Falcon CK board, and we made a deal.
Yesterday after work i passed andre's place and picked up "Lucky Number 13" (https://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=1898.0) ;D
The board was a little dirty after all those years.
there is a sticker that mentions "ok 02-12-81" , so at least we know that it was ok in 1981 :)
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/1.jpg)
do you see the spot where i tested the "alcoholcloth" ;)
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/2.jpg)
Ok, lets pull the old board..
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/3.jpg)
There is a different connector on my machine than there is on the board of Andre..
Later more on that....
Power supply area..
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/4.jpg)
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/5.jpg)
Monitor adjustment instructions..
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/6.jpg)
Hantarex MTC 900 Monitor according to this piece of paper..
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/7.jpg)
The two brothers; FCK-01 (blue) and FCK-00 (green)
According to Andre, the green are more rare ;) i think it's just the revision of the board
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/8.jpg)
New (old) Board in place, Ready to fire it up !
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/9.jpg)
hmm...... thats not what i want to see...
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/10.jpg)
after checking the dipswitches (thank you Andre to respond my phonecall :D) i reboot...
Hmmm a little more the way i like it, but not yet what i want..
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/11.jpg)
At first i thought it was the dipswitch that i moved, but then i realised that i "moved" the board to do that, wich could mean that the connector is not making a good contact.
After some wiggeling with the connector, i had different results..
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/12.jpg)
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/13.jpg)
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/14.jpg)
Lets compare the connectors...
I found out that the green connector that came with the board is smaller than the other, so i inspect the connectorside on the board
exactly what i was thinking! , they "cut" the board so that the green connector fits because it was too small for this board.
thats why it was so loose when i connected my connector, there was a difference of 1 mm wich causes the connector in my machine to shift and make strange contacts (if you understand what i mean to say)
So i tried to plug it in as carefully as possible and see that the connector makes the correct contact.
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/15.jpg)
Almost there..
just the screen is mirrored now, and i see the cage from the attract screen..
Lets "Wiggle" again with the connector..
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/16.jpg)
Victory !!!
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/20.jpg)
Level 1 CHECK!
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/21.jpg)
Level 2 CHECK!
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/22.jpg)
Level 3 CHECK!
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/23.jpg)
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/24.jpg)
Hmm.. now i have the "how high can you try" through level 3..
and the machine stops responding..
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/25.jpg)
I think its because the board is not fixated and the connector moved something..
Later i will modify the green connector to passthrough every pin straight and put this in between the board and the machine (including the adapter from my machine and test if that is the solution.
The green connector fits tight on the board after they cutted the board.. so maybe this is an option.
Ill post later the resuts..
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Have you tried reseating everything that's socketed on the blue board? Cleaned the connector on the PCB? Adjusted +5V (if possible)?
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Have you tried reseating everything that's socketed on the blue board? Cleaned the connector on the PCB? Adjusted +5V (if possible)?
Yes sir.. also i swapped all the chips from the green to the blue and vice versa to eliminate a possible error, but the FCK00 board does not like the FCK01 chips and vice versa.. so there are more differences between them than just the color of the pcb
the voltages i have not checked yet since i did not bring my multimeter..
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Have you tried the second connector on the side of the PCB? Should be the same.
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Nope, i did not know it was the same, Andre and i thought it was some kind of test connector..
Its worth a try ofcourse
but first i will try my adapter wich i will make tonight if i find some spare time :)
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It should be the same, but check carefully and don't blame me if anything blows up. ;D ;)
It might be possible that the second connector is reversed (solderside vs. parts side), but I'm not sure now, don't have a CK lying around at work unfortunately ;D
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Nice cab you have there! ;D
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nice to finally see a restoration from your side of the fence, etienne! good luck with it, i will support you all the way :spaceace:
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Thanx ully!
@ laschek, i will folow the traces or the connecors and verify if it is flipped, then i can test that too
but first i will make the connector that fits good as an adapter to check if my guess was right ;)
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Thanx ully!
@ laschek, i will folow the traces or the connecors and verify if it is flipped, then i can test that too
but first i will make the connector that fits good as an adapter to check if my guess was right ;)
Follow traces ? Why not "beep it through" with your DVM ?
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By the way it was phone when you got it running while we were on the phone, the sounds were very recognizable :D
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Beeping is the way to go i guess ;)
but it does not hurt to look physicly to the board at first ;)
Youre right, you listen it working one time between the power cycles, after that, i started to fiddle with the connector and had the different results
anyway, ill try the modified connector option first, then beep the connectors and try the other connector if it does noet workout with the modified connector
after all , if its working the way it should with my "new connector" there is no need to find out if the 2 connectors are te same
also the location of the other connector on the board requires some modification on the cables, becaus they are not long enough to reach that point..
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/3.jpg)
Or i can twist the board 90 degrees anticlock wise..
But thats not original! :D
Well, my modified connector isnt either..
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i'd simply turn around the board for testing purposes without fixing it. this should give you an idea whether the other connector is ok or not. if it works that way, you can think of a solution then ;)
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Ok, i went to my local electric part supplier because i wanted to get some shrink tube to modify the green connector.
While i was there measuring the size of the tube, i got the idea to ask if the maybe have a connector simular, and a piece of "edge connector"
in that way i dont need to desolder the green one and im sure its not oxidated inside
The man of the shop looked at me and says " jee, thats for sure 20 years ago that someone asks me for this" :shock:
Anyway, he went to his "NOS" part of the store and came back with a piece of edge connector 8)
the price is still in guilders (ovious for a 20 year old piece) so he needed to convert it in euro's :D
Its bigger than the one i need, but with a saw i can make it any size i want.
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/26.jpg)
Now, lets check the pinouts that i found on the internet.
there where some different pinouts for different Ckong boards so i decided to be sure and check with the connector that came with the board
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/27.jpg)
after looking 6 pinouts and compared them with the connector i had, i found the one that matches
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/28.jpg)
allright , lets check:
1. Solder station (http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/check.jpg)
2. Tin (http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/check.jpg)
3. Connectors (http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/check.jpg)
4. a bunch of wire (http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/check.jpg)
5. Pliers (http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/check.jpg)
6. shrinktube (http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/check.jpg)
It looks like i am ready to create a new connector :)
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/29.jpg)
18 pins on one side makes 36 wires..
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/30.jpg)
Seems like my shrinktube is too small for this wire.. >:(
Lets take 5 pieces of UTP and strip them down, 8 wires in utp x 5 = 40 wires, thats more than enough :P
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/31.jpg)
After stripping i prepared them by "pre-tinning" them and put the shrinktube in place
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/32.jpg)
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/33.jpg)
One side ready, just the edge connector to go..
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/34.jpg)
Pre- tinned the wires and edge connector..
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/35.jpg)
After soldering i verified the connector by "beeping" them through..
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/36.jpg)
Then i headed to my mother where the machine is located
Installed the connector..
damn same result..
I also measured the voltage on the connector that was 5,1 v without the board connected and 4,6 with the board connected, but i think thats fine since i got that result on both boards and one is fuctioning so i guess the power is good
also i tried the other connector on both boards, but same results..
I guess that there is something wrong with andre's board too , and i was just lucky to have one play (until level 3)
after that it never did that again. >:(
I putted back the working board (only the ape is missing sometimes) but at least i can play the game then
also i decided to leave my newly created connector because it releases the tention on the original connector wich was "bending" the board a little
so i did not make the connector for nothing :D
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/37.jpg)
I was a little dissapointed, but my son wasn't as you can tell on the smile on his face
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/38.jpg)
So where to go now?
Is it an option to read all the roms and verify them? or do i need to find someone capable of fixing the boards ?
I do have another offer for a 3th board , only thats not located in holland yet...
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damn, so much effort for (almost) nothing! thx for those tons of pics, always great to follow someone's steps closely!
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I also measured the voltage on the connector that was 5,1 v without the board connected and 4,6 with the board connected, but i think thats fine since i got that result on both boards and one is fuctioning so i guess the power is good
4.6 V is normally way too low, even if it works on the other board. Don't expect two boards to behave the same.
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Looks like i need to modify the connector again then...
I am thinking the folowing:
since i dont have a spare powersupply, use a PC powersupply and take the 5v & 12v line for a test, leaving the powerlines from the cab disconnected
i think that should work right ?
then measure again the power at the board, and see what happens
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A normal PC power supply has one big disadvantage: you can't regulate +5V (no pot). And often those old arcade boards do need a little more juice.
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This zaccaria does not have a regular powersupply, i dont see a pot to ajust voltages here..
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/4.jpg)
you think that the board suck more than 30 amps on the 5v line :o
specs of a regular 300w PC powersupply :
RED +5V 30A
YELLOW +12V 14A
I will measure the amps first on the original powersupply to be sure..
ps, you where right about the twist in the two connectors, the top edge connector has the solder and part side inverted
it was clear since pin 1 and 18 where marked on the board ;)
also you can see the location of the diodes and the resistors:
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/9.jpg)
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Do you have the schematics for the PSU ?
The problem with a PC power supply is not that the old board will draw too much current but that you can't set it a little bit higher than exactly 5Volts.
The voltage decreases over the PCB from front (where the connector is) to the end because of the IC's that suck relatively large amounts of current. (Compared to modern day stuff, except the CPU's that is).
By upping the +5V on the PSU side (let's say to 5.4 V) you will get about 4.8 or so on the end and 5.2/5.3 on the beginning which should be within the range of TTL IC's.
Now a modern day PC PSU is very good at regulating the voltage at EXACTLY 5V even when rather large amps are drawn.
However, because you will input 5V at the "front" of the PCB, you will end up with something like 4.6 at the "end"....that's what Lascheck meant.
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No sir, i dont have the schematics, but i will do a search for zaccaria powersupply..
i get what you mean now, you are saying that i have 5.1 volts in the connector and in the end of the circuit it could be that it has dropped to 4,6 volts
but i measure 5,1 without anything connected, and 4,6 when the board is connected
if the PC powersupply delivers 5volts and regulates that in combination with the current drawn from it, it should theoreticly mean that i will have 5volts on the board while its connected, wich is more than the 4,6 that i have now.
so i like to try it just to see what happens, it does not harm anything i guess ?
If that does not satisfy can i remove all the IC's and can you read and check them for me ?
Im curiouse if its a rom / ram or other problem..
@ robinholland:
If everything fails do you want to take a look at the boards ?
It looks like you are an expert on PCB's and you are the person more close to me
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I while back I did a scan of a Zaccaria Crazy Kong manual, it's available here: http://www.antelopearcade.com/manuals/Crazy%20Kong.pdf
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Thanx, downloading it now :)
EDIT:
In the technical manual there is the schematics of the power supply
I see a trimmer (T1) in the way to the +5 voltage regulator (RG1)...
Could it be that i need to cranck that up a little ?
I havent seen it in the cab , because;
a. its dirty inside
b. i did not put my head in the cab yet ;D
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Hey, you ICT guy, remember this golden rule:
Garbage in = Garbage out
;D ;D
Let me dl the schematics too...
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would that (http://cgi.ebay.de/Spielplatine-Crazy-Kong-Part-2-Jammaadapter-/150506802231?pt=Automaten&hash=item230ae78c37) be something for you, etienne?
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thanx for the link !
I see it stands still 9 days so i will follow it..
although i still have muerto's offer and bela needs one too, so maybe he is the bidder ?
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thanx for the link !
I see it stands still 9 days so i will follow it..
although i still have muerto's offer and bela needs one too, so maybe he is the bidder ?
Not me, but if you don't need it, I'll try to catch it! ;)
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i just checked, and its now on 1,50 there is a second bidder..
I'll take muerto's offer, and you go for thisone, then we are both happy
just put 24 oktober 18:00 in your schedule ;)
still thanx to superully for the link !
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So....did I miss something ? Are you now sure that the boards have problems ? Did you adjust the voltage ?
I have a feeling you're going to end up with 3 working boards..... ;)
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I can repair the pcb's for a nice price if you want
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PM sent ;)
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So....did I miss something ? Are you now sure that the boards have problems ? Did you adjust the voltage ?
I have a feeling you're going to end up with 3 working boards..... ;)
Im still waiting your opinion....
you wrote:
Let me dl the schematics too...
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O yeah, that download was so slow that I either forgot about it or cancelled it....I'll try again tonight...
:D
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i just checked, and its now on 1,50 there is a second bidder..
I'll take muerto's offer, and you go for thisone, then we are both happy
just put 24 oktober 18:00 in your schedule ;)
still thanx to superully for the link !
Thanx Etienne, there is 5 bids on it by now(none of them mine), I think the price will go too high. :o
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Robin offered to look at my boards, so in the end i think i will wind up with 3 working boards
the two i have here, and the one from muerto
im sure we can work something out if the ebay board is too expensive... ;)
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Robin offered to look at my boards, so in the end i think i will wind up with 3 working boards
the two i have here, and the one from muerto
im sure we can work something out if the ebay board is too expensive... ;)
I also have 3 non- or semi-working, maybe I ask Robin to fix those also, than we will have the biggest collection of CK pcbs with 6 pieces. ;D
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Okay, found some spare time this morning, and went to the machine to check the trimmer on the powersupply that i found in the schematics.
Lets try to see if it can give a little more juice than its giving now..
Armed with a trimkey, voltmeter and a flashlight i entered the cage of the monkey ;)
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/39.jpg)
Whats that ??? lets take a closer look and see...
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/40.jpg)
Thats not what i am looking for ! , that is not an ajustable resistor, thats a normal one >:(
hmm, im in doubt to go to my electronics supplier and buy the right trimmer that supposed to be there or just leave it like it is, and let robin check the boards first..
I think i'll wait robin's tests..
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Yup, that's where the 5V regulator pot should be...
Cheap bastards ! ;)
I'd put a potmeter in there anyway. You may always want to be able to correct the voltage.
However......the schematics don't specify the value !!
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However......the schematics don't specify the value !!
damn! :twisted:
Anybody here with a zaccaria cab that does have the pot ? and if yes, can that person check the value of the pot for me ?
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Did You can publish the schematics?
On the schematics there is any value of the parts?
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@ flip971
I while back I did a scan of a Zaccaria Crazy Kong manual, it's available here: http://www.antelopearcade.com/manuals/Crazy%20Kong.pdf
I did not look for specs yet, but andre mentioned that there where no specs for the pot in the schematics..
EDIT:
Just looked again in the schematics....
No offence Andre, but are you not wearing your glasses ??
(that sounds more friendly than "are you f#cking blind!") ;D
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/trimmer.jpg)
So next week i will be buying a 47 ohm pot i guess..
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I zoomed in a bit too much I guess ;D
SO, order a pot and TRY IT ! (Which sounds a little nicer than....uhm dunno really) ;D
Anyway, you can see that they already specified the fixed transistor OR the pot...
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@ flip971
I while back I did a scan of a Zaccaria Crazy Kong manual, it's available here: http://www.antelopearcade.com/manuals/Crazy%20Kong.pdf
I did not look for specs yet, but andre mentioned that there where no specs for the pot in the schematics..
EDIT:
Just looked again in the schematics....
No offence Andre, but are you not wearing your glasses ??
(that sounds more friendly than "are you f#cking blind!") ;D
So next week i will be buying a 47 ohm pot i guess..
I see now the link and the scematics... :oops: :oops: :oops:
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Ok back on this, i went to the electronics shop to give it a try.
picked up the powerboard and as you can see it is a little dirty :o
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/41a.jpg)
After some cleaning with a brush first, and later with some cloth it looks alot better.
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/42a.jpg)
My electronic supplier mentioned to me that the value of the pot (50 ohm) is "old" and that the only thing he has for me that comes close is 100 ohm.
Since the normal pot does the same job, i asked if he had that in 50 ohms, wich he did have.
I preffered a "onboard" variant, but because of the value issue, i went for the normal pot option, since i like to use the correct value
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/41.jpg)
Solder tools in position, lets go ! :D
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/42.jpg)
Look at that circuit!, totally tinned, i have not see that in a long time!
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/43.jpg)
After adding a little fresh solder to flux it up a little, tin sucking in action! I love my desolder station 8)
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/44.jpg)
The reason why i love tin sucking is that after that the old part just falls out without hussle
The resistor i kept in a piece of paper wich i attached to the technical manual that i printed, if i want to reverse my modification, and then i have the original part ;)
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/45.jpg)
I am a little peter packrat when it comes to parts, so more than one year ago when i installed some servers on my job i had some spare cables that came with a kind of "net tule" wich i put in my laptopcase instead of trashing it.
I knew that there would be a day that it comes in handy.
So because of the size of the pot i need to install some cable from the pot to the powerboard.
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/46.jpg)
To create a very nice "extention" to the pot i used the tule for the cables.
Looks very professional IMHO :-* Thanx HP ! :D
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/47.jpg)
After soldering the wires to the pot, i adjusted the pot to the value of the resistor that was there.. 22 Ohms.
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/48.jpg)
Modification complete ! ::)
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/49.jpg)
Now i need to test it out, wich i did not do yet.
I have measured the values before the modification:
The "working board" FCK-01 (came with the machine)
11.95 volts measured on the board between pin 1 and 5
4.91 volts measured on the board between pin 1 and 9
The "other board" FCK-00 (from Level 42)
11.87 volts measured on the board between pin 1 and 5
4.66 volts measured on the board between pin 1 and 9
straight on the connector (without board connected)
12.05 volts measured on the connector between pin 1 and 5
5.3 volts measured on the connector between pin 1 and 9
The question now to you specialists:
Do i just connect the FCK-00 board, measure the 5 volt line and try to pump up the voltage to exactly 5V and reboot the machine then ?
Or what is the recomended way to go from here ?
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Do i just connect the FCK-00 board, measure the 5 volt line and try to pump up the voltage to exactly 5V and reboot the machine then ?
Yes.
Matteo
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You say you are measuring on pins on the board. WHAT pins ? Near the connector ??
You should measure about "half-way" the board. Maybe there are some dedicated +5V test points there (although I doubt it) but else just pick a TTL IC and measure it's supply voltage pin (usually the one that is opposite pin 1, so on the other side of the body).
There should be plenty of GND points (large area's/tracks) to find around the same spot, or else also measure that on the IC itself, ususally on TTL IC's the GND pin is diagonally across the +5V supply pin....
See here for some drawings: http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/components/74series.htm
If you have like 4,6V on the beginning of the board, imagine what it will be on the end....
TTL tolerance os only about 0,25V, so it has to be between 4.75V and 5.25 ACROSS the board...
You already start too low so, yes pump it up (in very slow steps).
You could just as well have used the 100 Ohms pot by the way, as long as you kept it around the initial value of the original resistor.
I am jealous of your desoldering station by the way ! :)
Oh....and REMOVE your rings before working on electronics or electricity !!!!!! Rings are great as contacts to give you a nice shock OR even "only" short circuits by accident !
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Oh....and REMOVE your rings before working on electronics or electricity !!!!!! Rings are great as contacts to give you a nice shock OR even "only" short circuits by accident !
Good tip, havent thought about that :oops:
Silver is even a better conductor than cupper , so i'll keep that in mind!
I measured the "edgeconnector" from the board, the blank section just after the connector before it goes into the circuit, i hope you know what i mean :D
anyway, i just went to test it at my mothers place (where the cab lives..)
I connected first the FCK-01 board since that was working, and i checked if it was working
that part was ok, then i connected the FCK-00 board and started to increase the voltage
at the end of the pod i have a maximum voltage of .......
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/50.jpg)
I reboot, and it looks alot more promissing than before.
it started, and i could play.. (like before...)
Again at level 3 it crashes and i never had a good boot after that like the first time
So i think the voltage is still too low like you explain andre, imagine in the middle of the circuit..
So for now i put the original board with the graphic issue, since its possible to regulate the power , i adjusted thatone exactly to 5 Volts.
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/51.jpg)
The graphic issue is still there, but at least it got the proper voltage now
i measured the pot in the "maximum position" and i see that it has the high value of resistence, so it means the more resistence in the place of the resistor, the higher the voltage, i can not go higher because the pot is at his max of 50 ohms.
Gives me a theory...
If 50 ohms give me almost 5 volts, Can i replace it with one of 100 ohms and give the board more than the 50 ohms resistence so the voltage will be 5 volts without damaging the powersupply ?
another nice thing is that they still carry 100 ohms in the "onboard" variant, so the nice extention i made is no longer nessesary...
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Well.....this is the essential schematic with the included formula....
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100675/Schermafbeelding-202010-10-24-20om-2022-05-13/web.jpg?ver=12879518560001)
In your case, the pot is R2.
R1=R1
VoutIC is of course 5 Volt.
Now, we don't know Ib so it's hard to know the figures.....
I think you'd be able to try the 100 Ohms pot...but be slow with increasing it's value !
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Etienne [NL]: If You want use a 50 ohm pot, try to search on RS website.
I find some on the Italian pages:http://it.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=retrieveTfg&Ne=4294589105&Nr=AND%28avl%3Ait%2CsearchDiscon_it%3AN%29&N=4294593608+4294583997+4294494827&Ns=stockPolicy_it|1||new_it|1&binCount=3196&multiselectParam=4294593608%204294583997&selectAttribute=50%CE%A9#breadCrumb (http://it.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=retrieveTfg&Ne=4294589105&Nr=AND%28avl%3Ait%2CsearchDiscon_it%3AN%29&N=4294593608+4294583997+4294494827&Ns=stockPolicy_it|1||new_it|1&binCount=3196&multiselectParam=4294593608%204294583997&selectAttribute=50%CE%A9#breadCrumb).
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He's got a 50 Ohms in there now but it can't get the voltage high enough so that's why we are discussing the 100 Ohms...
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tanks flip but....
exactly Andre 8)
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I have decided to keep the first board in for now
after talking to belike, i found out that he was not bidding anymore on the board, so i took a gamble and i won this on ebay...
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/ebay.jpg)
It looks in this picture that the green is missing from the RGB..., i hope its his monitor, and not the board..
Ully is so kind to forward it to the netherlands since the seller only ships in germany..
I will try that board, before i blow up my powersupply with wrong parts ;D
The other two boards will visit Robinholland for investigation, its always good to have a spare 8)
ps. @ Robin, are you almost setup for the board investigation ?
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Just for completing the datas for the power supply.
I found a datasheet of the transistor TA78H05KC , here the link:http://img827.imageshack.us/img827/6548/datasheetua78h05kc.pdf (http://img827.imageshack.us/img827/6548/datasheetua78h05kc.pdf)
Some info on it can be usefull.
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The 78(H)05 is not a transistor. It's an analogue IC that is a fixed voltage regulator.
Simply put: You put unregulated DC in, and you get a very tight constant fixed voltage out. 78 means positive, 79 means negative voltage and 05 means 5 Volts in this case. So a 7924 puts out -24V.
They require the help of minimum two caps one on the input, one on the output. Sometimes a little more is used, but that is essentially it.
The "limit" of these range of regulators is that you can normally not adjust them. The trick with the pot and fixed resitor makes it possible to increase the voltage (to certain limits of course). But I think this is at the cost of some of the "tightness" of the singal.
It is pretty rare to see 78(H)05 (the H in this case means that it is high amps, so it is high power) in an arcade game for the MAIN +5V. Usually something else is used that is meant to be regulated from the start. Usually only the voltages that eat up relatively small amounts of power are created using 78xx or 79xx voltage regulators.
Etienne, you can try the 100 Ohms pot. If you really don't trust it, try to regulate it without the board connected first. Remember, a 100 Ohms pot runs from 0-100 Ohms. A 50 Ohms pot goes from 0-50 Ohms. So, as long as you set-up the 100 Ohms pot at the initial value (I think you mentioned 20 Ohms) and then increase it slowly (while measuring) you can see what happens.
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thanx for the input
i get your theory, it remebers me how we build a powersupply for the 3Meter Fm transmitter we used to play with..
i remember the 7812 IC that we used for that, but its true it looks like this:
(http://www.bitsbox.co.uk/images/7805.jpg)
I also remember that the component we use for more than 3 Amps was in a "case" like the one in this cab , but that was a 3055 mostly..
that is a transistor, like flip means
(http://electronics-lab.com/projects/power/004/2N3055.gif)
i dont remember how we did all that.., it has been 20 years ago :D
I need to find some time to check it out , this week is very busy...
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Yup, the first pic you show is a TO-220 casing. The second (drawing) is a TO-3 casing.
Both casings can "hold" a transistor, but as mentioned also something else, like a78xx.
But even a power resistor: http://www.vishay.com/company/press/releases/2005/050624resistors/
Hah, you played around with FM transmitters too.....so did we (my bro and me). Extra exiting because they were illegal. I still remember them being marked as "for export only" at the electronics shop. We had the famous "3 Watt" transmitter which had a very limited reach.
Some years later I actually DJed for a pirate radio station for a while....luckily I never got caught. We used a pilot transmitter to "beam up" the signal to where the real BIG transmitter (with a tube still !) was. Something I didn't realize then was that you would actually get a "strafblad" when you would be caught. Didn't matter if you were the owner or not...
Anyway...back on topic :)
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Well , this offtopic brings some memories, and thats also nice from time to time ::)
I had a "stentor" , wich could deliver 5 Watts if ajusted good...
later we installed a "Linear" with a BLY87 and after that another with a BLY89
(http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-UTEZEDWW.jpg)
Hand made circuit boards, etching etc etc..
hmm this really brings memories!
Stentors first stage 2n2219a - 250 milliwatt, to the MRF237 5 watts max output, into the BLY87 10 - 15 watts, and after that the BLY89 totals a 40 Watt output. Great times :D later installed a PLL instead of a stentor, and added a stereo coder with its anoying 19 Khz Pilottone :P
and dont forget the famouse "Velleman FM OSCILLATOR KIT" wich we use to make an wireless microphone :D
(http://www.designnotes.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/K1771.JPG)
anyway , youre right, back on topic...
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Ok , time to wrap this up.
I decided to start with part 2 since the only thing i can do in this fase is wait for the new board to arrive , or wait untill i and robin have time to make an appointment for fixing the boards that i have.
Oh wait, there is one thing left to do!
The image looks a little "fletch" (dont know if this is the english word for that, in dutch its "flets")
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/flets.jpg)
Then i found this in the manual..
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/schematics.jpg)
It can not be that simple right ???
After i found the switch, wich is located in the back top of the cab, i pressed it....
Yes it was that simple :D
Nice and bright colors again!
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/18.jpg)
So far for fase 1 , i will update when i get the board that ully will bring soon, or / and when robin and i both have time to look at my boards
Fase 2 starts here https://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=2126.0 (https://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=2126.0)
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Yesterday i passed Andre's place to pickup the CK board from the ebay auction in germany,
SuperUlly was so kind to "transport" this to holland, Big thanx for that Ully ! :spaceace: :spaceace:
Here is the 3th board that i have now :D
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/board3-1.jpg)
I tried to find a logo from falcon, and did not find that.. also i see that the "second" connector is unusable because there are no spaces cutted in the board to fit a connector, and also the diodes are missing in that part.. >:(
Could this mean its a bootleg ??? the pic on ebay showed "Falcon 1981"...
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/ckebay1.jpg)
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/board3-2.jpg)
The reason that i am not so happy is because the previous owner solderd (baked) a jamma adapter straight to the connector >:(
I was thinking to use the second connector, and leave this modification there and test the board in this way..
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/board3-3.jpg)
Time to start the operation !
Remove the Jamma Tumor ;D
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/board3-4.jpg)
That was easy ;)
Later i will desolder the leftovers and then i can test it and see if it works..
fingers crossed....
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After i got home, i took my desolder station and removed the leftovers from my tumor removal action ;D
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/board3-5.jpg)
I first removed the leftovers, then tinned all the connections to flow the old solder, and after that i started sucking 8)
As clean as i could get it..
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/board3-6.jpg)
Now i just need to find me some time to test it in the cab, after i put the CP back together...
its a little dificult testing without CP..
Keep you guy's posted ;)
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After i created a temporary controlpanel, i was very curious if the board that suffered from a "Jamma Tumor" was succesfully healed ;D
So i installed the board, checked the voltage, ajusted a little so the voltage is around 5 volt
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/board3-7.jpg)
I was a little worried that it was a boot since i did not see any logo on the PCB from Falcon.
The first sequence of the attract screen shows FALCON :P
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/board3-8.jpg)
The second sequence shows FALCON 1981
I dont think its a boot, since Orca does not show that..
or do there exist more manufactors that created Crazy Kong part II Boards ???
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/board3-9.jpg)
Anyway, Time to test the board 8)
Level 1... CHECK!
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/level1.jpg)
Level 2... CHECK!
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/level2.jpg)
Level 3... CHECK!
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/level3.jpg)
Level 4... CHECK!
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/level4.jpg)
It looks like i got myself finaly a working board! Huray!!! :spaceace: :spaceace:
In the add from ebay it showed missing green in the image..
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/ckebay1.jpg)
In my machine its running totally fine, so i guess it was his monitor, or wires that had a problem.
This finishes "Fase 1"
There is only one more technical thing, there is a little shake in the screen, could a capkit solve that ?
its not really shaking, more like a little "whobbling" if you know what i mean..
EDIT: the wobbling is caused by the fan... (https://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=2706.30) :(
anyway, lets continue here : Fase 2 (https://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=2126.0)
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Yes.
Congrats !
Also: why do you expect that a bootlegger would take the pain and extra work to get the Falcon message out ?
It's much simpler to copy everything :D
If there's no Falkon logo on the PCB, it's a boot.
I think.
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I will check my Orca tomorrow! ;)
Btw I also have a bootleg of bootleg's Ck pcb, it's a double one with a 3rd type of pinout! ::)
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Boot or no, for now its working, thats all that matters for now
Robin said he will take a look at the other boards, so im sure the original will be in there some day ;)
And this one will be a nice spare..
Do you want yours back after robin fixed it andre ?
I mean whats the point of keeping 2 spares...
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I will check my Orca tomorrow! ;)
Btw I also have a bootleg of bootleg's Ck pcb, it's a double one with a 3rd type of pinout! ::)
is it like muerto's CK 2-board set ?
That looks original too, i see the falcon logo on the PCB...
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/muerto/arc/crazykong.jpg)
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Orca's mainscreen looks like this,there is no any sign of the manufacturer :
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-UA8BV99Des/TOFfu2UEbiI/AAAAAAAAB-8/ic1z0EJFJ_s/s800/Crazy%20kong%20001.jpg)
The pcb itself has the Orca logo and the serial number:
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-UA8BV99Des/TOFfvXIU52I/AAAAAAAAB_A/Ew8yE5AqNDY/s800/Crazy%20kong%20003.jpg)
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-UA8BV99Des/TOFfwG190OI/AAAAAAAAB_E/5XDugyZ-6ws/s800/Crazy%20kong%20006.jpg)
Unfortunately the 3rd type of pcb I have is not at home, but I'm sure there wasn't any logo on it.
I will post some pics later from it! ;)
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I installed some new hardware in the servers of my customer today, and the leftovers for today where 2 antistatic bags ;D
Thanx again HP !
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/boards-1.jpg)
This will keep the boards safe untill they will visit RobinNL ;)
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/boards-2.jpg)
Its always a good idea to use proper packaging IMHO.
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Never mind, too tired to post....
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I will check my Orca tomorrow! ;)
Btw I also have a bootleg of bootleg's Ck pcb, it's a double one with a 3rd type of pinout! ::)
is it like muerto's CK 2-board set ?
That looks original too, i see the falcon logo on the PCB...
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/muerto/arc/crazykong.jpg)
I've got 2 boards like that one. One is called Donkey King, but other than a title difference, it looks like the other non-Falcon CK's (with just the title and 1981 on the title screen). The other is Crazy Kong, but has slightly different colors (I think it might have a CK Part 2 color PROM installed, as one PROM is different than the other 2). It also came with an external audio amp/pot, since it has no amp on the board (the area in the top left of the photo where the caps and sound pot are in your photo are empty). It also has one Falcon logo on the 2nd board (and KCK-01 I think) but not on the top board. It also uses the regular Falcon pinout just like the Falcon boards.
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Orca's mainscreen looks like this,there is no any sign of the manufacturer :
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-UA8BV99Des/TOFfu2UEbiI/AAAAAAAAB-8/ic1z0EJFJ_s/s800/Crazy%20kong%20001.jpg)
The pcb itself has the Orca logo and the serial number:
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-UA8BV99Des/TOFfvXIU52I/AAAAAAAAB_A/Ew8yE5AqNDY/s800/Crazy%20kong%20003.jpg)
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-UA8BV99Des/TOFfwG190OI/AAAAAAAAB_E/5XDugyZ-6ws/s800/Crazy%20kong%20006.jpg)
I've got one of these boards too, they have a completely different pinout (with a 22/44 connector instead of 18/36). Mine has the SMAA serial number on it too, and also the garbage above the high score when it's running in demo mode. I figured it was a glitch on my board, but maybe all the Orca boards have that? It does have one difference though. For some reason, mine has a little satellite board mounted in the Z80 socket, with the Z80 and some other chips on it. One interesting thing I noticed on it, when you clear a level, Kong immediately runs up the ladder with the lady, just like in Donkey Kong. On all the other boards I have, he waits for the music to finish before going up the ladder. In MAME, he also goes immediately up the ladder instead of waiting, just like on the Orca board.
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Yesterday i passed Andre's place to pickup the CK board from the ebay auction in germany,
SuperUlly was so kind to "transport" this to holland, Big thanx for that Ully ! :spaceace: :spaceace:
Here is the 3th board that i have now :D
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/board3-1.jpg)
I tried to find a logo from falcon, and did not find that.. also i see that the "second" connector is unusable because there are no spaces cutted in the board to fit a connector, and also the diodes are missing in that part.. >:(
Could this mean its a bootleg ??? the pic on ebay showed "Falcon 1981"...
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/ckebay1.jpg)
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/crazykong/fase1/board3-2.jpg)
I've got 2 boards running CK Part 2, one is similar to this one with no Falcon logos (although it has the other edge connector cut out on mine). I've seen others where the side connector wasn't trimmed like that though. My other board is a regular Falcon board w/ serial number. I also have 2 similar boards (one a real Falcon) but running the non Part 2 version (like the Orca board). One even has a different ROM that has a ladder missing on the 2nd row of the barrel board!
Anyway, sorry to make several posts, but it was easier to respond to specific ones that way :) Loved reading thru all your restoration process, and I might be making a post or two in the phase 2 thread too.
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Thanks for the info, seems like there is at least 4 kinds of bootleg's bootleg pcb exists. ;D
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I'd like to see pics of that board of yours, when you get a chance. Is it one of the conversion ones (Scramble or Galaxian hardware)? I've got one of the "Pac-Man on Galaxian hardware" PCBs (ROMset pacmanbl in MAME) that has the strange colors and sounds.
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Thanks for all the input !
And Welcome here at DLF orcourse :spaceace:
Another CK Lover aboard, Great !
Which boards do you want pictures of ?, i got 3 remember...
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Actually, I meant Belike's PCB...he said he had a 3rd type with 2-boards that had a different pinout. I didn't know there was another type besides the 3 shown here (except for the conversion ones...I imagine there's actually 2 styles of those, since one is Scramble hardware and one is Galaxian hardware)
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And the world famous Crazy Kong double pcb bootleg ;D ;D ;D
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_-UA8BV99Des/TXIyMuNng2I/AAAAAAAACcs/Ji_GBvTWdVo/s800/Ck%20pcb%20001.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_-UA8BV99Des/TXIyM-8EEYI/AAAAAAAACc4/ujvLqRbaPTg/s576/Ck%20pcb%20002.jpg)
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Looks like it's the same one as Muerto's, and the 2 boards I have (one being Donkey King). I'd bet that's a Falcon pinout, not a 3rd type. It seems to be missing a chip on the board on the left though, right above the EPROM with the green sticker. The 2 boards I have that look just like that have some sort of chip the same size as an EPROM, but whatever identification is on them has been ground off.
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It has a different pinout than the Falcon version, you can check it here(marked as double pcb):
http://www.jammaboards.com/pinouts/Crazy%20Kong.txt
My Crazy Kong cabinet was wired to this pinout when I bought it, the pcb was working with some graphic problems, I really don't know if that eprom is missing or it wasn't there originally. ::)