Very Cool Darth!!! I am currently also linking my G-loc Deluxe with Arduino: but I also want to control the motion. My idea is to have a fully controllable G-loc Deluxe cabinet so art students here can program a "Immersive Artistic Experience" on it. Off course the game will be switchable, back to its original state: I did not do all the restoration work for nothing.

Yet I can't find the schematics of the motion controller board. But you obviously have those! Could you send me the schematics? And the schematics (and case pinouts) of the Y-board? I reverse engineered all the controls so far (which is quite straight forward), but I would like to keep the controller board working as well since it also processes the perimeter sensors and actuator feedback. Would be cool if I can just drive it from Arduino instead of the Y-board. Have not been able to reverse engineer the 25 black wire bundle connecting the two... Not looking forward to that either!

thanks in advance!

I'll get those pictures on it tomorrow...

believe me, it's there. Hard to not notice it.

Hi there DarthNuno,

hope your new driver boards work out. If that doesn't solve it, I think the board before that: the A/D D/A board is to blame. I analyzed the motor supplies to be driven by a simple four bit (four wire) control. 1 bit for the motor direction (thus supply polarity) and three bits for motor speed (supply voltage). You can simply test this with the actuators in the center position and making all four bits 'high' (+5 volt), for a very, very short time; the motors should run at maximum speed: so stop in time! Better of course to just measure the supply voltage with the motors disconnected. I do not know if the end switches are connected directly to the power supply or to the A/D/ D/A board... I guess they are not connected to the power supply as the motor test in the service screen can ignore them....

I don't know if you measured on the supplies yet... If they are dead, then that's that, but they are heavily protected by electronic overcurrent and thermal cut outs so I doubt wheather they died. Both of them! The only fragile part in the supplies is the H-bridge for the motor direction; these are easily repaired though (just four parts there).


please let me know; this shit is some damn fine Japanese electronic art!
 

Pretty interesting and not at all hopeless results though! I notice three things, which lead to a fourth:

1) on the working sega screen: your background is missing. This means that one of the 68000 is not acting, I believe. I don't know if that is actually one of the two boards.
2) disconnecting the DA/AD-board connector might help if there is a short circuit on one of the lines. But it might also be a switch of because of a failing selftest. But I can't tell...
3) but I did notice: you have the schematics and owners manual! excellent! Could you mail me a copy?
4) if you do, we could isolate the problem more easily!

good luck, and oh: beware of static electricity: 1988 boads are still very sensitive to that. Putting one on your nylon carpet would be unadvicable...

 

My G-loc is now in almost perfect working order; just need to get some painting done and stickering.

is your game running? Since you wrote that at first movement was all that failed, I reckon it's most probably the safety that's on... so one of the perimeter breach units is either missaligned, dirty or not well connected.

I made a little sketch explaining all the units in the base of G-loc for those that want to repair one...