.... at the (Dutch) National Videogame Museum in Zoetermeer at 5-8 November 2019.

Randy Fromm, an Arcade tech whizzard. So if you need or want to learn something > https://www.facebook.com/NationaalGameMuseum/posts/2257843524460206

I just had to share this.

http://www.retrovideogamer.co.uk/rvg-interviews-henk-nieborg/

I know Henk personally, met him a few times because we were/are both into Japanse Candy cabs and retro games. He is living just a few km's from my place and I think that he is a great guy and a great pixel artist.  

His website: https://www.henknieborg.nl/

So I'm trying to wake up my old mame cabinet again, putting an Arcade monitor in it with a MTC 9000 chassis. The chassis needs 128V AC and 220V AC input. I also happen to have a US250 power supply.

A few questions:

- What is the 220V AC input for?

- The MTC9000 manual mentions that you can use a US250 power supply, but for what? The US250 only outputs 136V DC (and a bunch of lower voltages)?

- If I can use the US250, then I obviously don't have 220V AC from it available. Is that a problem?

- Next to 136V DC pins on the US250 there are two pins for degauss. To where do I connect them on the MTC9000?

Guys, who knows how to regulate the 5V on the Zaccaria Power board, or how to modify the board so that I will be able to regulate it. The attached pictures show the one in my Moon Crest and it is only spitting out about 4.35V, sometimes even less, and Moon Crest doesn't like it (glitches on the screen etc.).

Guys, the time has come that I need to say farewell to most of my classic games, for several reasons. That's why I put all games but Crazy kong and Moon Crest up for sale, including a bunch of spares (monitors, art, etc.).

Here is the gamelist, with some details per game (All SOLD):

1. A very, very nice DK, nicest one in Europe,   with the DKII Romhack (http://www.jeffsromhack.com/products/d2k.htm) and a second PCB with the DK/Paulina romset from Jochen. Also some flat T-molding that I didn't install yet and other spare parts (mainly coin door related). I installed a brand new NOS bezel last year.

2. A DK cocktail game (licensed by Nintendo) that needs serious attention but has the rare original 4-board DK PCB (working status unknown). It comes with repro CPO art, made by Etiènne.

3. A very nice Galaga, 100% working and in good condition, with extra artwork set from This Old Game (Side art, kickpanel art and CPO). It comes with an extra PCB that needs a repair (keeps rebooting).

4. A very nice Joust, 100% working (after I swap out a faulty RAM), it already has the 4164 RAM modification, it has a superb WG WGZ1973-U2GS14H monitor with an as-new picture, the batteries are replaced by a 3V CR2032 cell battery, spare marquee and a set of art stencils that I bought from André a while back.

5. A very, very nice Juno First, in good condition and 100% working. Great game.

6. A very nice Gyruss, 100% working. This is a wonderful game. It comes with a spare game PCB and a HS save kit that still needs to be installed.

7. A very nice Centipede, good looking cab with a 100% working game. I also have a spare PCB for it which needs repair (onscreen garbage) . There were some smaller damages on the laminated frontpanel that I smoothened out. I have black laminate for it to put on, so the cab will look like new again.

8. Qix, the cabinet is in decent condition, the game is working but the old WG monitor needs attention (screenfield was narrowed), probably a daughterboard issue. I have a repro CPO for it (from This Old Game) and a second Bezel or marquee.

9. A very nice Pac-Man, with a NOS WG monitor with beautiful picture. I also still have the original WG monitor, which died on me, again probably a daughterboard issue, so repairable. At the moment I have Mike Doyle's 96-in-1 Multipac installed, so lots of games. It has a NOS marquee and I have a complete set of stencils or the whole cabinet, bought it once from a KLOV member. There is also a Multi pac-man marquee (see the froum somewhere) and a repro TOG CPO waiting to install.

10. A tempest which is in great condition. This cab is a real beauty, although if I would have kept it I would exchange the CPO and the marquee. The game is complete but not working. I think that it is a monitor problem and I have the monitor for repair at Andre's place (will he still?).

11. A beautiful Black Widow. This game is very rare and you won't find another one in this great condition. It was 100% working until one day the monitor picture collapsed. This monitor is also at André for repair (and the same ....).

12. An ugly Nintendo VS, at least ugly because of the green color. However I already removed some of the paint and under it the orange color of the original DK Jr. cab shows up. The cab is in great condition, but will need new side art. It is 100% working and comes with two games, VS Super Mario Bros. and VS Dr. Mario. SMB has a freeplay rom installed and has a marquee. For both games mirror-printed bezel artwork present, they just need to be installed on glass (also present). for SMB also some original docs are present.

13. A very nice Breakout, 99,9% working. Nice game with some history as we all know. The front laminated panels could use a new fresh black laminate, but see below for that.

14. A Ric-o-chet which is in great cosmetical condition. This is like a 4-player pong. The game is working, but with a distored gamescreen. The monitor, which acually is a 1967 BW TV (!!) needs repair or replacement. But the cabinet is in excellent condition and complete.

15. A very nice Asteroids. The cab is in great condition and 100% working. I have the HS save kit installed. A real beauty.

That is it for the games. For most of them you will find pictures (at least, as long as photobucket isn't killing the links!!!) and more details in several topics on the forum.

Additional I have:

- a second NOS monitor (the same as the one in Pac-Man), still in box
- a spare BW vector monitor (Asteroids)
- some other spare tubes
- a 3 meter role of black laminate (for the Atari games like Centipede, Breakout)
- originals manuals for about half of the above mentioned games
- some smaller stuff, like coin inserts etc.
- stepdownconverters for the games that need it.


That's about it, as you see quite a lot of stuff. When this is all gone, then I still have two Zaccaria cabs, Crazy Kong and Moon Crest (and a High Speed pinball). I'm keeping these two because they are are pure youth sentiment. And this is not an Exit, I'm just trimming down a bit.  

Now comes the important part, I don't want to spend too much time and hassle on selling the games, so at the moment I am only open for offers for the whole collection and parts, not for individual games! I have also approached a few collectors outside our community because I don't think that there will be many interested here for the whole lot, most of you already have more than one of the above listed games, but I feel obligated to inform you all and give you an opportunity.

If you are interested for the whole collection, then please send me a PM with an offer. And I can't hold on the games for too long. If I fail to sell the whole lot in one deal, then I might later be open for individual offers.


And I don't know if you know someone with love for Japanese Candy games, but also for sale are:

New Astro City. Cab is in great condition With a very nice monitor. Comes with an original 2P6B CP, repro marquee holder, 2 (Cave) marquees, 220V-110V stepdown converter. NVS4000 PSU. Euro coin mech (€ 0.50).Everything working 100%. Price is € 775. SOLD



Sega Blast City. Cab is in great condition. MS2931 monitor, no screen burn, original 2P6B CP, second marquee (Cave, see picture), 220V-110V stepdown converter, Original Jamma/JVS 001 loom. Works on 100 Yen (I can supply some Yen coins if wanted). Everything working 100%. Price is € 925 SOLD



Like both games? Get them for 1.650, including 2 stepdown converters.



- 3 original Taito stools, red cushion. € 50 each. SOLD
- original 2-player Taito bench. € 125. SOLD

Guys, I'm designing a new Zaccaria sign. It's based on the freely available file from Etiènne and on some other sources, but I reworked them pretty much. I made two versions in Corel and I would like to make one of them them from acrylic (3mm, two layers, yellow back, black front), 2 mounting holes.

I will probably make them in two sizes: 40 x 20 cm (€ 30) or 50 x 25 cm € 45). On special request I can make it bigger, up to 80 x 40 (Huge!)

Before I start making them I would like to know which one you prefer the best and if you would buy one.

First:



Second:

Guys, some of you know that I have a Nintendo VS Unisystem. I bought the game a few years ago with a container groupbuy. The cab is in very good cosmetical condition, very solid woodwork, but ........ it's



Yep, green, acid green (gifgroen!). Painted by some Americano.  

Still, it's a very nice cabinet and I have two great games for it. Dr. Mario and Vs. Super Mario Bros.

The cab has only one real damaged spot, fortunately at a place where new side art will hide it:



Hey, orange!    Of course, this cab used to be a DK Jr, according the serial plate at the back of the cab. Fortunately, I always thought the acid green paintjob was technically a poor job, the paint feels sticky and has a strong orange-skin effect (you know, the effect that women hate on their skin). Probably it would also have a bad bonding with the original orange layer.

So, I tried to peel away the green paint, just with my fingernail. And it peels away very easily. This spot was done in a few seconds:



I tried a few more spots on the frontpanel







Yep, everywhere the nice orange color appears. Seeing the excellent condition of the cab I now have high hopes that the original orange skin is everywhere.

But how to remove the green paint from the whole cab, without damaging the layer beneath it? I can't do it with my fingernails, so who has the golden tip for me? What miracle stuff do I need to use?