Dragon's Lair Fans - Arcade Lifestyle
General Chat => Dragon's Lair / Space Ace => Topic started by: Giddygoon on December 25, 2009, 08:00:42 PM
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Hi All!
I've got an Hanterex MTC9000 19" Monitor, and im going to install it into my DL cabinet. will it run from the original Atari psu?? My cab is an Atari UK cabinet........ currently there is a TV in there but want to return back to an original state.
If anybody can help!!
Thanks again Giddygoon
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As long as I know: yes
My sidam has a hantarex 900E
and 9000 should be the same
I'll check the atari cab tonight and let you know
check the voltage first to be sure (should be 110 on the monitor entry and 220 on the power supply)
Let me know
Marco
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The Hantarex MTC9000 requires 128 V AC + 220 V AC to operate. These voltages are not available in an Atari Dragon's Lair. To do a correct installation you'll need to install an additional transformer to provide the required voltages to the MTC9000.
However, you can "hack" it in using the 120 V AC used to supply the Matsushita original Atari monitor, feeding it to both 128V and 220V AC of MTC9000 power supply inputs. It will work the same but with degraded performance of the degaussing system.
Matteo
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Checked,
Yes I confirm what matteo said, it is a matsushita (not Matshushita
eaten much today, eh matteo?! ;D Xmas even to you :D)
do as matteo told you, or use an external power supply for the hantarex like the 250 or 150 very easy to find in your country (ebay.co.uk) so you can avoid the degradation of the image
Let me know
Mav
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Hi thanks for the info, but I'm confused! First of all I'm not sure that I have a hanterex mtc9000 or weather it's a mtc 990? How do you tell? Also I took this monitor from a jamma cab and I have the hanterex psu that it was running from, I could put that in my DL cab but Id really like the monitor to run from the original psu in cab
if anybody could give a bit more info, Ive never done a monitor swap before. I thought that if the monitor was from a uk jamma cab it should work in a UK DL cab.
Appreciate the any help with this seeing as I'm installing the
monitor tmr.
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Ive never done a monitor swap before.
Giddy, one word: BEWARE
it is better you call a technician
before doing anything you have got to discharge the tubes
I thought that if the monitor was from a uk jamma cab it should work in a UK DL cab.
Nothign is sure at this life, consider that each dedicated machine is made to work on its own
they are not jamma so keep this point in mind
Appreciate the any help with this seeing as I'm installing the
monitor tmr.
Discharge the tube,
placeit in the Dl cab and then use the power supply of the hantarex (that should be 150 or 250)
Let us know
and don't be dumb with monitors' discharge procedure
Mav
Hi thanks for the info, but I'm confused! First of all I'm not sure that I have a hanterex mtc9000 or weather it's a mtc 990? How to
Make a photo, a simple photo and post it
and I'll let you know
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Thanks for all your help! Discharging is a must but your right, DL is not jamma cab! I'm away from machine right but I will send a photo of the monitor asap! It's a shame about the voltage difference, it would have been to have run the new monitor from the original psu, how do I know that I have the original psu, what does it look like...what do you look for to recognise it as the Atari original!
Thanks again john
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your right, DL is not jamma cab!
I know, it is not an easy fix if it stops or must be restored
Keep it always in mind
It's a shame about the voltage difference, it would have been to have run the new monitor from the original psu,
Don't get demotivated
You can do it just get what it needs to make it work properly with loseless efficency
how do I know that I have the original psu, what does it look like...what do you look for to recognise it as the Atari original!
Thanks for all your help!
Thanks again john
I see to make a photo of mine and post it maybe tomorrow
Mav
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Ive never done a monitor swap before.
Giddy, one word: BEWARE
it is better you call a technician
before doing anything you have got to discharge the tubes
No, no, no. There is NO need to discharge a monitor if you are NOT going to remove the tube from the chassis !
This urban legend just never seems to stop. In fact, you are searching for trouble doing so IMHO.
ONLY if you plan on removing the anode cup from the CRT, you will first need to discharge.
If you are just going to swap the monitor completely, there is NO need to discharge. The only place that any high voltage COULD be available is under that rubber/plastic cup on the tube. As long as you're not going to stick your finger under there, you are safe.
Handle the monitor only by it's frame and you can simply swap around.
Note that there _can_ be caps on the chassis that hold a voltage. But if it's been turned off for some time (24 hrs) those charges are usually gone. Simply: don't touch chassis, don't stick finger or tongue under anode cup and you are safe.
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Everytime you have to act on the tube (as in this case moving from a cab to an another) it must be discharged
It never happens that the tube discharge, but if accidentally it does, it kills
30,000 Volts are killers
not my word check BYOAC
Better work safely
here a good guide to do it:
http://arcadecontrols.com/arcade_monitors.shtml
http://www.stickycarpet.com/pinx/md.html
Mav
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Everytime you have to act on the tube (as in this case moving fro a cab to an another) it must be discharged
Well, I'm an electronics engineer, and I disagree. Moving a COMPLETE monitor is _not_ the same as acting on the tube.
Also, the high voltages are nasty, but not killers. Yes it's high voltage, but there's no real power behind it. It's not like a hi-voltage power line that is hanging in the air to power cities with electricity.
Yes, it's a nasty bite (and yes, I've experienced it one time). My uncle has had several of them and he's still alive and well (he has been repairing TV's for 30 years).
I don't care what people write, there are millions of lies written all over the internet, I care about what people write he KNOW their stuff, not just "howling with the wolves".
The second link you mention even says it in the first line:
Before you go diving in and start pulling out Anode plugs,
See, and that's not what you do when you simply move a complete monitor over.
But yes, if you are going to separate the tube from the chassis, or even plan on only touching the anode cup, YES a discharge _must_ be done.
That second link is the perfect way to do it. I've seen suggestions to use an uninsulated screwdriver and some wire etc. and I feel that that is even MORE dangerous than not discharging at all, because it's very easy to accidentally touch the metal part of the uninsulated screwdriver. That's why I say don't do it if need _really_ necessary.
I have a unit that's a HV probe and meter in one unit that I use for measuring the HV and discharging it. Without any exception all the tubes I discharged had no charge anymore when I did the discharging, but I STILL do it EVERY-TIME to be 100% sure, but only if I need to remove the cup.
I'm all for safety, in fact I'm about the most critical person about safety in my work and at home, but there is no need to keep on telling myths and giving false information that make people unnecessarily scared (which is actually endangering them).
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Moving a COMPLETE monitor is _not_ the same as acting on the tube.
Also, the high voltages are nasty,
Yes, it's a nasty bite (and yes, I've experienced it one time).
You 're right
but as posted on BYOAC (a forum as long as I know in which you are signed too and extremely serious on informations given) it is safer,
Many don't have the same knowledge you have as us in muching inside a monitor (where to touch and where not)
For giddy it would be better to discharge the monitor and proceed with the swap to avoid any 1/99% risk
Mav
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so you can avoid the degradation of the image
I didn't say this. I only spoke about a degradation of the performance of the degaussing system that is launched once at every monitor power on. Picture quality won't be affected as long as the new monitor is in good working order.
Matteo
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The point I'm trying to make is that unexperienced people have more risk of getting a shock from the HV by trying to discharge it wrongly and if it's not necessary, why seek that risk ?
And being a member of a forum doesn't automatically makes me agree with everything written there ;)
Anyway, I'm always trying to give advice with the best interest for all people :)
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The point I'm trying to make is that unexperienced people have more risk of getting a shock from the HV by trying to discharge it wrongly and if it's not necessary, why seek that risk ?
I think Giddy will do it wisely I've bought many items from years on ebay and I know he's a wise guy
as fully demonstrated avoiding any risk following the procedure
Hopefully he'll do it with the help of some technician
He's a wise person so I think he'll not fail
Mav
But yes, if you are going to separate the tube from the chassis, or even plan on only touching the anode cup, YES a discharge _must_ be done.
Touching the anode cup when moving a monitor if you have experience can happen
So why risk?
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Hi thanks for the info, but I'm confused! First of all I'm not sure that I have a hanterex mtc9000 or weather it's a mtc 990?
MTC990 doesn't exist. Yours can be either MTC9000, MTC900E or MTC900. In all cases what said about the power supply stays valid. Beware that a MTC900 won't work properly with a euro Dragon's lair pcb without a HW modification.
How do you tell?
It's usually written on a label on the monitor chassis. If it has fallen off, just search for each monitor manual on internet and compare pictures from the manual with yours. Or take a picture and post it here.
It's better to double check what you have before posting such questions on forums...
Matteo
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Or take a picture and post it here.
It's better to double check what you have before posting such questions on forums...
Matteo
I think Giddy has found himself today in one of those classic situations in which we think everything works and then discover that something is not going at it should
I already told him to post a photo because any information of his monitor has fallen
He can be confused, but in good faith
He'll post a photo and tell him the right procedure
Mav
Ps= good you precised the degradation process
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Thank you, Thank you, Thank you all, when it comes down to removing CRT's from chasis's , I'm ok! I've had to do it a number of times to hanterex polos or WG to get them repaired! I won't sticking my fingers under any anode cap unless it's been discharged!
I can confirm that it is a hanterex mtc9000, I found the manual. I'm going to fit the Hanterex psu somewhere in side my DL cab and then connect to the MTC and then that should work!!
If It does then I will let you all know, with some piccys too!
Happy Christmas and Happy new year to all on the forum!
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I can confirm that it is a hanterex mtc9000, I found the manual. I'm going to fit the Hanterex psu somewhere in side my DL cab and then connect to the MTC and then that should work!!
As I already said in my earlier post, there's no need to install another supply to see if it works. You can use the original monitor supply from the Atari Dragon's lair wiring harness, with a connector adaptation. You can also leave degaussing power supply input disconnected if you don't think you'll need it.
Matteo
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before doing anything you have got to discharge the tubes
No, this is completely unnecessary if you remove the monitor with the chassis attached to it. As long as you keep your fingers away from the suction cup nothing can happen
In fact, you better don't, there is a risk that you don't do it properly and you damage the pins of the suction cup, or that you do get a shock if you don't discharge properly
Jou can handle the monitor and chassis frame without any risk
one tip though: pull up your sleeves and wear gloves. Not for safety reasons, but because the frame can be veriy dirty.
ck ;)
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Thank you, Thank you, Thank you all,I won't sticking my fingers under any anode cap unless it's been discharged!
I'm going to fit the Hanterex psu somewhere in side my DL cab and then connect to the MTC and then that should work!!
If It does then I will let you all know, with some piccys too!
Ok, I wait for you
Mav
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Hi everyone!
I have now transfered my Hanterax MTC 9000 monitor, everything works but I blew the lamp in the marquee, can anybody tell me what the output from the socket neon lamp on the hanterax us250 hanterax psu, I took out the Atari original. What I should do to get the dragons lair marquee working again! Also when I switched it on first time the marquee came on but there was a loud humming sound so I switched if off and the lamp does not come on at all now, voltage problem I think!
The monitor is working great, also are there any other colour controls on the back of the mtc9000? I can only find hv/vh,focus and brightsness controls? No colour!!
The Dragons lair is the Atari uk version
if anybody can help, thanks again and happy new year!!!!!
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can anybody tell me what the output from the socket neon lamp on the hanterax us250 hanterax psu
The monitor is working great, also are there any other colour controls on the back of the mtc9000?
http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Monitors/ (http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Monitors/)
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Hi all!
Sorry to ask again, but I can't read electrical wiring diagrams. I've installed the Hanterax MTC 9000 monitor in the Atari DL cab and also in installed a Hanterax Us250 psu and taken out the Atari original..... by the way it's for sale if anybody wants it....it would have to pick only tho. Now my new problem, on the psu it has a neon lamp out, I connected it to the original atari lamp, it came on, with a very loud hum then went off. Now some of you here have Sidnam cabs that run of A Hanterax psu what lamp and starter unit are you using. Can I use the original parts in the marquee or do I have to change something?? Sorry to ask again but I never changed a psu before.
Other than that it's working great, no TV, no remote control. Which I had to use every time I turned it on..);
thanks to everyone who has helped so far, otherwise I would have damaged the monitor for sure
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Sorry to ask again, but I can't read electrical wiring diagrams.
It's only a figure. You only needed to look at the connectors output pinouts and figure out the voltages that are being supplied. There's no electronic knowledge needed here. Lazy, eh ? :wink:
I've installed the Hantarex MTC 9000 monitor in the Atari DL cab and also in installed a Hanterax Us250 psu and taken out the Atari original.....
As I already said in one of my previous messages, there was no need to do such a thing to install a MTC-9000. Oh well...
Now my new problem, on the psu it has a neon lamp out, I connected it to the original atari lamp, it came on, with a very loud hum then went off.
I don't know what neon lamp output you're talking about, but anyway, did you measure the voltage coming out of it before attempting to connect the original Atari neon light wiring harness to it ?
The original neon light ran on 115 V AC (as per manual, that you probably didn't read) and I strongly suspect that you supplied 220 V AC -> you toasted the neon ballast
Matteo